Fiji
Solomon Islands
Vanuatu

Samoa
New Zealand

We drove to the Safua hotel, stopping off at the Pulemelie mound on the way. Give the mound a miss, it is so overgrown, even with a very active imagination it is not possible to make anything out. The Safua Hotel is not located on a beach and has no swimming pool, but if you wish to swim you can use the local springs. Accomodation is provided by a number of small fales, arranged around a grassy lawn and partially hidden by shruubery. The fales are fairly basic, but they do have a fan which you can leave running to keep you cool whilst you sleep. We found, and another guest confirmed, that the bedding had a slightly damp feel to it, but it was not uncomfortable. Meals are served in a large fale palagi, and are generous, tasty and very reasonably priced. The staff were very friendly and helpful; Moelengi Jackson, the owner of the hotel who is, by all accounts somewhat of a character, was not there. It is probably the best hotel within easy reach of the wharf. If you want something to do in the evening, there is a nightclub at the Savaiian Hotel, just down the road, and one in Saleloga, although we were told that it is the best place "to get your head thumped".

We went down to the springs and swam in the one of the pools which was inhabited by fish that are not averse to taking a nip. However the pool soon filled up with local children so we drove along the coast to the beach at Tuasivi just after the new hospital. It has an excellent white sand beach and no current. There were no custom fees to pay for using this beach.

There was much excitement at the hotel in the evening because Cindy, a drag queen from Apia was staying the night and it appears that she has become quite a celebrity, with her Thursday night shows being very popular with the great and good, or so we were informed. The presence of the fa'afafine in Samoan society presents a strange juxtaposition of an easy going polynesian society with a devout church going populace. Never tackle a Samoan on issues of Christian theology, they know the bible inside out and it is not unusual to find a couple of pages in a newspaper devoted to investigating some obscure aspect of the bible. And yet the fa'afafine is an accepted and valued member of the community, not ostracised as you would expect in a deeply religious society which appears to believe that the bible is the word of God, and are quick to point out any transgression. Many Samoans I have come across say that the fa'afafine are not homosexual, but I think this is more a desire not to accept the evidence of their own eyes. I suppose it could be argued that they are trans-sexuals, and admittedly in New Zealand some have been obtaining sex changes and taking hormone therapy, but this is only a minority. It seems that Samoans have learned to accept the gay community so long as the gay community keeps overtly homosexual behaviour out of public view.

We spent most of the evening chatting to an Australian couple, and we finally found out why I had been having so much trouble with 4x4. It seems that simply putting the gear box into four wheel drive isn't enough. There is a locking nut on   each of the front wheels. Normally this is set so that the wheels are free to spin around the axle. However when you want four wheel drive you have to twist these nuts around so that the wheels actually grip the axle and are driven by it. Oh well, I suppose I got a little bit more exercise then I would have if I had been privy to this little secret.