 Up at
5:30 so we could catch the 7:20 filght to Tanna. The flight is in a 20 seat Twin Otter and
takes 55 minutes, during which time you fly past a couple of other islands. The landing at
Tanna airport is on a grass strip that has a wicked dip in the middle of it. We were met by a guide from Nangao Entani Tours, as were 3 other travellers,
two Australians who had also been in the Solomon Islands and a Kiwi who had been working
in Vanuatu for 6 months. We were driven across the island, stopping briefly at the islands
administrative site, where another member of staff was picked up, and then 30 minutes
later at Whitesands, the tour operators offices. Here we had to sign waivers freeing the
tour operators of all liability should something go wrong when we visit Yassur. We were
then taken to Port Resolution where we were hoping to see a dugong, and drop off the other
three visitors who would be staying the night at small hotel. Unfortunately, however much
the hotel employees tried they were unable to coax the dugong to shore.
 We then headed off to Yassur, the main reason for our trip to Tanna. From
the point at which we crossed the mountains on our way to Whitesands we had been able to
see the cone of Yassur and heading towards Port Resolution we had driven across the
alienlike landscape of it’s ash plain. But once we turned right off the road and onto
the track that leads up the mountain we had been able to smell it’s presence and
occaisionally hear it rumbling in the distance. As we drove through the tropical rain
forest, we passed small vents of steam coming out of the side of the road. the forest soon
gave way to a barren ash covered, boulder strewn landscape as we drew closer to the
shoulder at which the four wheel drive could go no further.
One thing that you notice about Yassur as you travel around Tanna is its
asymetry. From Port Resolution there is no sign of an ash plain or barren mountainsides
and everything appears lush and verdant most of the way up the mountain. But as you
approach it from the centre of the island, you drive across a barren expanse of an ash
plain and the side of the mountain is completely devoid of any life. The explanation is
actually quite straight forward: prevailing winds. In this part of the Pacific the winds
blow all year around in predominately the same direction, from the south west. As a result
everything that issues forth from the volcano rains down on the same part of the island.
 Yassur has the reputation of being
the most accessible active volcano in the world, and from where the 4x4 stopped we had to
climb less than 500 metres before we were standing at the top of its cone. Initially we
were unable to see anything because the crater was filled with clouds, but we were able to
hear a mighty rushing sound coming from the clouds beneath us. We were finding breathing
rather hard, not because of the little bit of exertion from climbing to the crater, but
because of the fowlness of the air. It was so laced with oxides of sulphur that ours eyes
were stinging and watering, our noses were itching and our throats were sore. Suddenly a
breeze cleared the clouds of sulphurous smoke and we gained a view of the inside of the
crater. It is hard to describe its appearance, but the inside slopes were very steep,
almost vertical in places, it must be at least 400 meters across and everywhere you look
there are fumeroles expelling gases, and rocks of all shapes and sizes lie all around from
previous erruptions.
 However there is no roiling lake of molten lava and it took several seconds
to locate the source of the incredible rushing sound, three glowing vents at the floor of
the crater almost vertically beneath us. Whilst we were watching them, the volume of noise
suddenly increased and a plume of white smoke shot up into the air. This lasted a few
seconds and then died down only to be followed by an earthshaking rumble and a huge cloud
of dust and rocks was thrown up into the air. Needless to say, we turned tail and ran.
When we saw that there was nothing coming over the side of the crater we gingerly made our
way back. Once again we could see nothing in the crater, there were thick billowing clouds
of white sulphur dioxide and as we stood there we could see ourselves getting covered in
ash. The clouds were gradually blown out of the crater and once again we could see down
into it. The next erruption followed about five or six minutes later.
 
Standing on top of a volcano whilst it is errupting, is probably one of
the most foolish, but awe inspiring things I have ever done. We were told by the tour
company that the last time a tourist had been killed was about five years ago. However a
friend who taught in Vanuatu and has married a ni-Vanuatu tells us that two Japanese
tourists were killed there in 1995. It is a truly awe inspiring experience that will
remain clear in my memory for many years, but I will also remember just how terrified I
was. I was trying to film it, but my hands were shaking so much I failed to capture much
of interest on tape. |