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Trip on the Western Road - Asaga - Public Works - Old Fort of Tamuafa - Vaitele - Malietoa's Forts - Destruction at Wartime - Political Town Alliances - Agreeing to Differ - First Experience of Kava-drinking - Kava: its Introduction to Samoa - Chewing the Kava - A Drinker's Inside-Unrequited Attention- Ceremony of Presentation-Beachcomber's Improvement on Native Style.

SHORTLY after my arrival I took an early opportunity of exploring the surrounding country, and by way of becoming acquainted with my new neighbourhood, I rode out on a voyage of discovery on the Western road.

Immediately on leaving the town it becomes nothing more than a bush-track, curving in and out beneath the lofty cocoa-nut trees and bananas belonging to the Roman Catholic Mission.

The Asaga creek is an ugly piece of swamp, covered with salt water at high tides; but a mass of foetid black mud overgrown with dismal mangroves at low water. We crossed on a very roughly-built causeway with a bridge of primitive construction in the middle of it, joining on to the path on the other side, the first and, at the time, the only pride of the Municipal Board of Works.

Rough though this work is, it is an inestimable boon to the travelling public, as, before it was constructed, wading was the only way of crossing this filthy spot.

About a mile from home we came to the fort of Taniuafa, the scene of the infamous massacre of July, 1877. It was now in a ruinous state, but still the high earthen parapets and ditch remain distinctly to be seen, standing as monuments to native trust and white man's perfidy - passing under the title of diplomacy.

Crossing a very briskly running little river, bounding out with startling, suddenness from the dense dark bush and disappearing as quickly again in a sharp curve amongst the thick bananas on its way to the sea, and passing, on a broad road, through the German plantation of Vaitele, with the sea close on our right hand, we again plunged into the bush, and in about an hour arrived at Malietoa's outposts, erected during the late war, and constructed in the most skilful manner known to Samoan military engineering.

There was altogether, I should say, about a mile and a half of encircling parapet built up of the best material to hand, sometimes stones, sometimes logs; at other places there would be a combination of both.

At different points, towers built up of logs were erected to give an overlooking defence, whilst every here and there - whether intentionally or not I can't say, but rather imagine not-were run out projecting works giving a flanking advantage for repelling a direct attack on the front line, which was continued right down to the water's edge.

To prevent the enemy from creeping round in their canoes and taking the shore-position in rear, were six block-houses of heavy logs built. in the water on piles, and extending at regular intervals in a straight line to the very edge of the reef, a distance of quite a mile, which would have rendered a good account of any sly attempt at an advance upon Apia.

In the old times, before the introduction of fire arms, the natives not using bows and arrows, and the war-club not being a weapon of greater range than its own length, immediate personal encounter and close fighting were necessary. Since, however, white civilization has conferred upon them, among other doubtful blessings, the repeating-rifle and revolver, they rarely get within range of each other's guns, and make a great deal more fun over little damage to human life.

The sight, though, of a native town after the enemy has paid a visit is very dismal. Everything that would burn has passed through the ordeal of fire; and if there has been time, the growth of forty or fifty years of food-trees has been ruthlessly destroyed, leaving the once smiling and cheerful little town a heap of' blackened ruins surrounded by the stumps of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees that it would take at least two decades to replace.

One thing, however, that must be placed greatly to the credit of the Samoans is that they do not intentionally kill women or children, although with them a decent-sized boy in war-time stands a very good chance of man's treatment.

The women, even when the two opposing armies are facing one another with deadly intent, pass to and from between the belligerents without molestation, visiting their relations and friends on either side.

The inhabitants of each town seek marital alliances in as many other towns as possible, the farther off the better, so that they would have friends in any part they might wish to go to, and allies in case of war.

Some districts on the approach of war will agree to differ amongst themselves, especially if the scene of operations is in their neighbourhood. They will divide into two parties, and join the fighting on opposite sides. Thus they preserve their lands and property, whichsoever side may win, and besides that, have friends in court when the war is over.

About a mile beyond the forts we came to a pretty little village, where dismounting, we entered one of the houses for a chat.

We did not know the people, but, as is customary in Samoa, where hospitality is almost a religion, as travellers requiring a rest we were made as welcome as the resources of the place permitted.

After shaking hands with the gentleman of the house, and the two ladies we found there, clean mats were spread for us to recline upon; the usual visitors' compliments were delivered, and responded to by the stereotyped apologies, peculiar to the country, for not having anything sufficiently good for our acceptance.

Having brought a piece of Kava-root with us, it was duly presented to the goodman of the house, who after eying it for a minute or so, in a similar manner to that in which a connoisseur at home would a glass of wine, and making many complimentary remarks thereupon, sent for two girls to make a brew.

This was my first personal experience of Kavadrinking; and I think that before proceeding any further, I may as well initiate my readers into the mysteries of the brewing thereof, which partakes of the nature of a ceremony at all times, and on great occasions of a mysterious rite.

The plant Piper methisticum, producing the root from which is manufactured the national drink of Samoa, is a sort of pepper growing luxuriantly all over the group.

Its proper Samoan name is 'Ava,' which somehow or other has of late years adopted an initial K. This innovation, however, is not generally in vogue amongst the natives themselves.

The same article in Fiji is called 'Yanonga,' and Samoan tradition has it that it was from thence it originally came, at the same time as the sugar-cane. The story reads thus:-In old times, 'by some means or other, a Samoan girl went to Fiji, where she married a great chief, and lived with him very happily for a long time.

At last she became homesick, and determined upon returning to her country as soon as she could. When all her plans were completed, she looked about her to discover something to take back that might be useful to her countrymen.

One evening. after searching all day without success and becoming very tired, she sat down at the foot of a small mound and fell asleep.

Two plants only were growing on this mound, with none other near them.

After sleeping for some time she awoke, and spied a rat gnawing at the stem of one of these plants. Soon after, the rat desisted, curled himself up at the foot of the plant, and went to sleep. From this the girl drew the conclusion that this plant was calculated to comfort the body, so she determined on taking it with her to Samoa. This was the sugar-cane.

Still watching, not long afterwards she saw the animal wake up, and burrowing in the ground at the foot of the other plant, come forth again with a portion of its root in his mouth, which he commenced to chew with great relish. The effect of this last plant on the rat was very different to that of the first. He now became bold and strong, whereas before he was weak and nervous.

This she saw would be good for her people, and accordingly determined upon taking that plant with her also. In course of time she departed for Samoa, and arrived at Savaii, the westernmost island, where she took up her abode, having as a neighbour a great chief, who had just received the first fowls yet known in Samoa. The sugair-cane here drops out of the story altogether.

On landing, the woman planted her Kava, which grew with exceedingly great luxuriance, and was immensely coveted by this neighbouring chief, to whom, however, she refused a single plant.

At the same time she was very anxious to acquire some of his fowls, in order to raise a brood of her own, and he in his turn refused her one single hen; wanting no one to have fowls but himself, as she in a similar way wished that no one but herself should have Kava.

At last they came to an agreement, to the effect that on her presenting him with two roots of Kava, he should in return give her two hens.

The exchange was accordingly made, neither, however, intending to act fairly in the matter; for he gave her old birds who could not lay, whilst she, equally cunning, gave him two dead roots.

It was a case of diamond cut diamond; each party complained to the other that the articles supplied were worthless; but each being bent on satisfying their individual desires, matters were at last settled by the woman giving the chief two good Kava roots, and his returning the compliment with two laying hens. Subsequently he married, and she married; each had their family, who on leaving the parental roof took with them both fowls and Kava, and in their turn their children did likewise : and thus these two articles became spread over all Samoa.

The Kava root, when in good order, is somewhat saponaceous in nature, cutting smoothly and easily, and is used both green and dried, in which latter state it will keep for any length of time, and becomes an article of commerce, fetching at the stores from two to three shillings per pound, according to quality and supply.

Without Kava-drinking nothing necessitating the assembly of two or more individuals is correctly done in Samoa. Its presence is expected and de 7~gueur on every social occasion, and is associated with every occupation, be it manual or political.

When visiting, it is the correct thing to take a root by way of a present to the person called upon, who, on graciously receiving it, will send for his girls, and instruct them immediately to get a bowl under weigh. If none should be brought, and the host should have any, it will be all the same-the inevitable beverage will be produced; and should he have none, profuse will be his apologies for not being able to entertain his, guest properly.

It does not matter what is the incentive, whether it be in political or everyday life, Kava is omnipresent and indispensable. It even follows the working-parties to the bush, where, seated in the shade, the untiring damsels will preside over the festive bowl, for the refreshment of their relations working round about them.

The preparation of Kava in Samoa is diffirent from that practised in the neighbouring groups of Fiji and Tonga. In the former it is chewed solely by the boys, whilst in the latter it is against the law to chew it at all-a missionary innovation, I believe. There it is pounded between two stones, or grated.

In Samoa it is invariably chewed by young girls. None but they are permitted to chew Kava, for strangers or guests, or upon any public occasion. A native in the retirement of his own house, requiring a stimulant, will at times avail himself of the services of his wife, should there be no girls at hand but this would not be considered proper before strangers.

Each and any maiden in a town may be called upon, without any chance of refusal, to make the brew; even a strange girl passing by may be pressed into the service, and will obey without a murmur.

The chief Kava-maker is always the maid of the village, who, by way of conferring distinction on favoured visitors, attends with her satellites on occasions worthy of such condescension.

The necessaries for the manufacture beyond the raw material are the 'tanoa,' or bowl; the 'hipu,' or cup and the 'fou,' or strainer.

The bowl is made of a very hard red-coloured wood, either circular or oval in form, more frequently the former. It is of all sizes and depths, and invariably supported on four short thick legs; the lower part of the bowl, as it stands on a level surface, nearly touching the ground between them.

Some bowls, from constant use, become magnificently enamelled with an opalesque deposit precipitated from the liquor used, short though the time is that it is ever allowed to remain there.

This enamel accumulates but slowly, beginning at the bottom of the bowl, and is susceptible of a very high glassy polish. On every occasion after use, a well-kept bowl is carefully polished up with a soft piece of tapa, until in course of time it presents the appearance of an enormous concave opal framed in a dark-brown border-the flat edge-and forms a very handsome and unique ornament, much sought after by visitors.

It is said, I imagine jokingly, that the stomach of an inveterate Kava-drinker in course of time becomes similarly encrusted; and I have also heard it said, with what veracity I must leave the reader to judge, that there once was a man who when in that condition caught cold, and whilst sneezing cracked his enamelled inside, and died.

The 'hipu,' or cup, is the lower half of a cocoa-nut shell scraped thin and polished, sometimes highly ornamented. It is used for apportioning out the Kava.

The 'fou,' or strainer, consists of a bunch of vegetable fibre produced from the bark of a tree of that name, and is used for the purpose of straining and separating from the Kava in solution, all particles of woody fibre that will not dissolve.

On special occasions, Kava-drinking partakes of the nature of a ceremony, and is carried out on the most serious lines.

Dressed in their best, the maid of the village and her attendants will be perceived seated in a row in the centre or at one end of the house of assembly, with the ' tanoa,' 'hipu,' and 'fou' before her. At the bidding of the chief, some pieces of Kava root will be given her; after a little dressing to remove any worthless part, she or one of her fair companions will slice them into convenient pieces for chewing, which, after carefully rinsing their mouths, they will all proceed to do.

Now is the time for a young man to show his polite breeding, perhaps with the idea of inducting himself into the good graces of one of the lovely damsels sitting ruminating the Kava in a most unsympathetic, stolid and 'business-like manner, by stepping up and assisting in the cutting department.

However well he may do this, his attentions are received without the smallest semblance of thanks. If perchance a stray glance be cast upon him, it is invariably one of the greatest indifference and most lofty superiority; no acknowledgment of a favour conferred, but very much the other way. Perhaps he gets his reward from these apparently scornful ones after all is over; he certainly does not get it during the operation.

Perseveringly, however, he will continue to supply the ladies with piece after piece of sliced root, until in time it becomes a physical impossibility for the most capacious mouth amongst them to contain any more, and the facial attractions of these dusky ones are considerably discounted by the distended condition of their cheeks. When sufficiently masticated, the Kava is ejected into the hand, carefully held up before the mouth during the process; and after two or three turns in order to consolidate the lumps, they are placed in the bowl with an audible thud, looking, for all the world, like so many egg-shaped masses of damped oatmeal. The attention of the chief is then drawn to the work, to decide whether there is enough material chewed to furnish Kava for the company present, and for this purpose the bowl is tipped towards him. If in his opinion there is not enough, he sets the girls to work again; but if he is satisfied, the proceedings pass on to the second stage of manufacture.

Again the nice young man comes into play. The beauteous damsel selected to continue the process now holds forth her pretty bright-olive hands just outside the house, over which he pours the contents of a cocoa-nut shellful of water. She then resumes her position in front of the bowl, and grasps the 'fou,' in the folds of which are placed the chewed lumps. Once more the young man is requisitioned to pour water slowly into the bowl, whilst she with many dexterous. twists and turns kneads the material vigorously, expressing all the virtue therefrom that her skill and strength will permit. The mixture then assumes a turbid greenish-yellow colour, and bears 'by no means an inviting appearance as a desirable potation to the uninitiated stranger. The 'fou' is now worked. to and fro in the liquid, with a studied elegance impossible to describe, to separate from it all particles of woody fibre that the water does not take up in solution. This being satisfactorily concluded, a loud clapping of hands proclaims the Kava ready.

The third and last act of the ceremony now approaches; the most important one by far, especially when the assembly consists of people from all parts of the Samoan group, when the greatest care and most consummate tact is required to avoid injuring susceptibilities, or giving offence by, any neglect of rights of precedence or custom.. Many a quarrel in Samoa has had its origin in the Kava distribution, merely from one chief receiving the cup before another believing himself to be of higher rank, and as such entitled to prior service.

As soon as the hand-clapping is over, one of the home party, who is appointed a sort of toast-master, and upon whom devolves the duty of correctly distributing the Kava, calls out in a loud sing-song tone of voice : 'Here is the Kava. Let it be shared out'

One or more of the girls will then arise, and taking in hand a 'hipu,' will present it to be filled by the one in charge of the bowl. This is done by plunging the 'fou' into the liquid, and squeezing the contents into the cup, which for the purpose is held over the bowl.

Even in this simple performance there is found room for the display of considerable grace, the bearer swinging the cup away from the bowl, and returning it to its former position; on each occasion the 'fou' is recharged in time to receive the next squeeze, and so on until the cup is filled. She will then face about, and, with the cup held delicately by the farthest rim level with her dimpled chin, and with raised arm, stand in a most charming attitude of expectation, awaiting the. crier's instructions to whom she is to take the cup. He, of course having made his arrangements beforehand, calls out at the top of his voice with a loud introductory shout, the more prolonged the better, Oh !!!!! a cup of Kava for ____________ mentioning the name of the highest individual in rank, to whom our bronze-tinted Hebe, with all dignity possible, crosses over, and standing in front, cup in the same position, bends down elegantly, at the same time lowering it with a grand sweeping motion until it reaches the recipient's hand.

She then, with the prettiest air of studied humility, stands back and'to one side, awaiting the further pleasure of the individual she has just assisted, who either returns the 'hipu' to her, or skims it along the matted floor with more or less dexterity towards the bowl, the highest aim of which practice is to make it stop exactly in front of it. Some Kava-drinkers are past-masters in this method of return, putting a rotatory motion on the cup that brings it up, still spinning, exactly on the spot required. And thus the distribution goes on until all have been served.

There can be no doubt that the preparation of Kava, as practised in Samoa, is in the abstract repugnant to European tastes and ideas, and that there is every excuse for entertaining a sensation of disgust with regard to it; but nevertheless, as a fact, it is not very long before the feeling wears off, and the stranger takes to the national beverage as kindly, if not more so, than the native himself. The aversion to the operation of chewing the root is made vastly more easy to be overcome by the visible and careful precautions taken to assure perfect cleanliness; whilst the appearance of the girl herself who performs this duty, the very incarnation of purity and glorious health, together with the graceful manner in which she does her work, go a very long way towards reconciling the tyro to patronizing a practice which, under very slightly different circumstances, he would never be brought to consider at all without loathing.

The taste of the beverage to the virgin palate is by no means tempting, being somewhat of the flavour of soapsuds with a curious twang of ginger about it; leaving, however, after swallowing, a not unpleasant sense of smoothness in the mouth. Nor does the dismal colour of the liquid assist in any way in its pleasurable introduction to the debutant in Samoan dissipation. It is a perfect outrage to the critical eye, a turbid, nasty looking greenish-yellow, and only differs in degree of repulsive appearance accordingly as it is 'brewed from the green or dry root. It cannot, however, be denied that it is a very appropriate drink for the climate, being a moderate stimulant, and at the same time an astringent and a very useful diuretic. When taken in any great and long-continued excess-and immense must be the e1Tort to attain the effect-it produces a sort of scaly skin disease, more especially to be noticed amongst whites, and also a most unsightly condition of the eyes. Intoxication of a peculiar and local nature may be produced from indulging too freely in this flowing bowl, but can only be arrived at when the patient's system is thoroughly saturated with the seductive fluid, and in this desirable condition of body he imbibes an inordinate quantity with but little time between drinks.

From the hips upwards all will be correct and as usual. The head will be perfectly clear, but on the experimenter essaying to rise, he finds that he has entirely lost the use of his lower extremities, rendering it impossible for him to stand, much less walk. His legs are as much good to him as wooden ones, and about as sensitive; and in this state of helplessness he has to remain, until the baneful effects of his excess wears of.

It does not take very long for a new arrival to become a convert to Kava, in spite of the predetermination invariably indulged in to abstain from, as is at first considered, so uncleanly a habit; whilst most old stagers are never without a full bowl somewhere near them, taking it as strong as it possibly can be made. There are tales of improvements by papalagi (whites) on the native manufacture, such as blending it more or less with square gin, even to the total exclusion of water, to make it a little more satisfying to European taste, thus providing temporary agreeable paralysis for the rest of the body in addition to the legs. I have also heard of 'painkiller' and laudanum being added to make, as was stated, the stuff more comforting; but this was in Tonga.

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